Colmar

[tree_and_leaf]

Worst day of the year or not yesterday - I had a simply lovely day, over the border in France to Alsace, more precisely to Colmar, with a friend.

The excuse for the trip was to visit the Grunewald exhibition based around the Isenheim Altar, a rather overwrought, proto-Expressionist - but undoubtably very powerful - piece of work. I was strangely reminded of Dali's Christ of St John of the Cross - though Dali is a good deal less drastic and brutal. I think it's something about the hands, as well as the slight air of unreality.

The rest of the day was more frivolous, though it was disappointing to discover that the Dominican Church was closed all winter, and that thus we couldn't see the Schongauer Maria im Rosenhag, which might have been a nice counterweight to the angst of Grunewald (yes, the Isenheim Altar does also show the Annunciation and the resurrection - but it's the Crucifixion that makes the impression).

However, instead we had a nice lunch with a glass of good wine, and wandered about town.





The courtyard of Unterlinden museum, formerly an important Dominican nunnery.



View into town, looking towards the cathedral.



Characteristic street corner.



"Little Venice".



The "Kopfhaus": sixteenth century patrician housing, and a mix of mediaeval and renaissance.



The Synagogue, with... Christmas trees? (Although my friend, who is from rural Spain, gazed at the Christmas tree in the cathedral and said "Wow. They'd never put up something that pagan in a Spanish church." American papers please copy....)

Comments

[sangerin.livejournal.com]

Ooh - I've been told about the Isenheim Altarpiece. And your pictures are lovely!

[tree_and_leaf]

Thank you. I wouldn't say I *like* the Isenheimer Altarpiece exactly, but it's quite breathtaking (and rather disturbing, but then it's supposed to be).

[dolorous-ett.livejournal.com]

These are beautiful - especially the cloisters and the timber frames!

*envies*

[tree_and_leaf]

Thank you!

I can't believe how pretty and intact Colmar looks, given how often it's been fought over. (And you can certainly see why it was fought over...)

[ms-wanderlust.livejournal.com]

The photos are gorgeous....thanks for sharing them. And Dali's "Christ of St John of the Cross" is one of my favourite paintings. I remember the first time I saw it in Glasgow...a very moving experience.

[tree_and_leaf]

Thanks - glad you enjoyed.

"Christ of St John of the Cross" is indeed magnificent, though apparently the local art students got up a petition against Glasgow buying it, because they said it was a waste of money that should be spent on supporting and encouraging local artists (i.e. them?) Luckily, the council didn't listen....

[white_hart]

It looks like such a pretty place!

[tree_and_leaf]

It's really charming - a very pretty part of the world all round.

[rivrea.livejournal.com]

I have never been to Colmar, only to Strasbourg, but these photos now make me want to go to Alsace again. It looks as though you had a really excellent day!

[tree_and_leaf]

I did indeed. Colmar is absolutely worth a visit, though of course it's very small. Strasbourg is on my list, but that will take a bit more organisation to get round to; Colmar's only about an hour by bus from Freiburg, and there are very good ticket price deals.

[anna-in-the-sky.livejournal.com]

Schongauer's Maria im Rosenhag would indeed have been a great counterweight to the Grunewald angst. There used to be a copy of it hanging in my old 'Gymnasium', which is named after Schongauer. Your photos remind me very much of the many school trips in my youth... Colmar is indeed lovely.

[tree_and_leaf]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed!

I'll have to go bak to Colmar in the spring or summer - I've seen reproductions of the Schongauer, but it's never the same....

[anna-in-the-sky.livejournal.com]

No, the reproductions aren't the same... About getting to Strasbourg: I think there should be some reasonably priced train connections from Freiburg. Otherwise, if you're feeling more adventurous, try www.mitfahrgelegenheit.de . It would certainly come cheaper.